Yellow lampas gown fragment

Status

Not on view

Date1718-1730

Medium/TechniqueSilk, Lampas

DimensionsOverall: 11 1/2 in. × 15 11/16 in. (29.21 cm × 39.85 cm)

Credit LinePurchase, 1956

Object numberW-2151

DescriptionThis yellow silk lampas fragment is part of a point repeat design (a reverse repeat, mirrored across the central axis), containing a central bouquet motif with tulips, berries, pineapples, and pomegranates in a vase. The central motif is flanked by serpentine vines featuring berries and grape leafs. Various geometric diaper patterns are used to fill the floral elements. Based on comparison with other fragments of this fabric which contain a selvedge, the original width of the fabric was approximately 20.5 -21". The vertical repeat of the design is approximately 15.5".

The fabric is plain woven with supplementary warps and thicker wefts, causing a very slight ribbing. The warp floats are Z-spun, and the weft floats are unspun and show a 4/1 satin stitch. The reverse of the fabric shows only plain weave, with evidence of the weft design visible only by the binding points of the satin stitch.

The piece shows significant splatter staining and some bleaching in central spots. Dark black spots, possibly ink, are also present. The bottom left corner shows what appears to be ink sketch marks.

The right edge is a selvedge, which is pressed under and shows 2 green stripes running its length. Thread from a seam along the selvedge is still present: it is Z-spun 2-ply-S yellow silk that is also present in other fragments from the same fabric. A row of running stitches in the same thread runs parallel to the bottom edge (7/8" from edge). The bottom edge is folded under and held in a tap hem; the fabric is turned 3/16". Though the tape is unraveling significantly, there is some evidence of a dobby weave.
Published ReferencesWilliam Armstrong, “Some New Washington Relics, I. From the Collection of Mrs. B. W. Kennon,” The Century Magazine XL: 1 (May 1890): 18.

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