Yellow lampas gown fragment

Yellow Figured Dress Fragment,
1730-1750,
Silk

Status

Not on view

Date1718-1730

Medium/TechniqueSilk, Lampas

DimensionsOverall: 2 5/8 in. × 3 1/8 in. (6.67 cm × 7.94 cm)

Credit LineGift of Mrs. John S. Wise, 1955

Object numberW-2007/A

DescriptionThis yellow silk lampas fragment is part of a point repeat design (a reverse repeat, mirrored across the central axis), containing a central bouquet motif with tulips, berries, pineapples, and pomegranates in a vase. The central motif is flanked by serpentine vines featuring berries and grape leafs. Various geometric diaper patterns are used to fill the floral elements. Based on comparison with other fragments of this fabric which contain a selvedge, the original width of the fabric was approximately 20.5 -21". The vertical repeat of the design is approximately 15.5".

This fragment shows a portion of the serpentine motif on right side of the overall design.

The fabric is plain woven with supplementary warps and thicker wefts, causing a very slight ribbing. The warp floats are Z-spun, and the weft floats are unspun and show a 4/1 satin stitch. The reverse of the fabric shows only plain weave, with evidence of the weft design visible only by the binding points of the satin stitch.

The fragment is unfaded but bears a small, red-brown stain that is similar to those found on other fragments in the MVLA collections from the same fabric. There are also very light stain spots. The upper left corner is creased into a pleat.
Published ReferencesWilliam Armstrong, "Some New Washington Relics. I. From the Collection of Mrs. B.W. Kennon," The Century Magazine 40/1 (May 1890): 18.

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