Yellow lampas gown fragment
Date1718-1730
Medium/TechniqueSilk, Lampas
DimensionsOverall (H x W): 2 in. × 3 9/16 in. (5.08 cm × 9.05 cm)
Credit LineGift of Mrs. J. Adger Smith, 1932
Object numberW-1120
DescriptionThis yellow silk lampas fragment is part of a point repeat design (a reverse repeat, mirrored across the central axis), containing a central bouquet motif with tulips, berries, pineapples, and pomegranates in a vase. The central motif is flanked by serpentine vines featuring berries and grape leafs. Various geometric diaper patterns are used to fill the floral elements. Based on comparison with other fragments of this fabric which contain a selvedge, the original width of the fabric was approximately 20.5 -21". The vertical repeat of the design is approximately 15.5".This fragment is taken from the lower left of the central motif and shows a repeating bull's eye pattern surrounded by scrollwork.
The fabric is plain woven with supplementary warps and thicker wefts, causing a very slight ribbing. The warp floats are Z-spun, and the weft floats are unspun and show a 4/1 satin stitch. The revers of the fabric shows only plain weave, with evidence of the weft design visible only by the binding points of the satin stitch.
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