Yellow lampas gown fragment

Fragment of Martha Washington dress
Silk

Status

Not on view

Date1718-1730

Medium/TechniqueSilk, Lampas

DimensionsOverall: 4 7/8 in. × 9 5/8 in. (12.38 cm × 24.45 cm)

Credit LineBequest of Ella Mackubin, 1956

Object numberW-1482/B

DescriptionThis yellow silk lampas fragment is part of a point repeat design (a reverse repeat, mirrored across the central axis), containing a central bouquet motif with tulips, berries, pineapples, and pomegranates in a vase. The central motif is flanked by serpentine vines featuring berries and grape leafs. Various geometric diaper patterns are used to fill the floral elements. Based on comparison with other fragments of this fabric which contain a selvedge, the original width of the fabric was approximately 20.5 -21". The vertical repeat of the design is approximately 15.5".

The fabric is plain woven with supplementary warps and thicker wefts, causing a very slight ribbing. The warp floats are Z-spun, and the weft floats are unspun and show a 4/1 satin stitch. The revers of the fabric shows only plain weave, with evidence of the weft design visible only by the binding points of the satin stitch.

This small fragment was definitively matched to other fragments of the same fabric by both weave technique and aligning the design.

The piece is completely unfaded. While the L shape does not indicate use, the left edge is concavely curved, which could indicate placement at the neckline or the bottom of the bodice. The curve is too wide to have been placed at a sleeve, and there is no evidence of gathering.

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