Yellow lampas gown fragment

Fragment of Martha Washington's dress
Silk
1730-1750

Status

Not on view

Date1718-1730

Medium/TechniqueSilk, Lampas

DimensionsOverall: 6 9/16 in. × 5 3/8 in. (16.67 cm × 13.65 cm)

Credit LineBequest of Ella Mackubin, 1956

Object numberW-1482/A

DescriptionThis yellow silk lampas fragment is part of a point repeat design (a reverse repeat, mirrored across the central axis), containing a central bouquet motif with tulips, berries, pineapples, and pomegranates in a vase. The central motif is flanked by serpentine vines featuring berries and grape leafs. Various geometric diaper patterns are used to fill the floral elements. Based on comparison with other fragments of this fabric which contain a selvedge, the original width of the fabric was approximately 20.5 -21". The vertical repeat of the design is approximately 15.5".

This fragment shows a piece of the vase in the central bouquet motif.

The fabric is plain woven with supplementary warps and thicker wefts, causing a very slight ribbing. The warp floats are Z-spun, and the weft floats are unspun and show a 4/1 satin stitch. The revers of the fabric shows only plain weave, with evidence of the weft design visible only by the binding points of the satin stitch.

The piece has two creases from being folded and pressed into a frame for display. Designating the three rectangular sections to be section A (the smallest, 2 3/4" x 2 1/2"), section B (the central section with two crease edges, 4" x 3"), and section C (2 7/16" x 4 1/4") will make it easier to explain the irregular fading. Section is A is faded along the left and the crease. Section B is bright, but has a light red-brown stain (which is probably why this section was not displayed). The stain is also evident on several of the other fragment from this fabric in the MVLA collection. Section C is faded.

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