Apron

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Not on view

Date1775-1800

Medium/TechniqueCotton, linen

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 38 3/4 in. × 57 1/2 in. (98.43 cm × 146.05 cm)

Credit LinePurchase, 1956

Object numberW-2157

DescriptionWhite sheer cotton and linen apron with shallow scallops on three sides, a center front joined seam, and embroidered with sparse floral designs in white cotton and linen. Worked with stem stitch, drawn work, eyelets, buttonhole (edging) and darning. There is a piece cut out at top and a large patched hole, scattered mended areas, and it lacks its original waistband and ties.

The piece is constructed from a light muslin in a balanced plain weave, of approximately 64 tpi. Both the warp and weft yarns are Z-spun. The white work embroidered motifs consist of a repeat of carnations, bell flowers, and berries or buds. The placement and repeat of the motifs follow a very strict pattern--perhaps in imitation of woven designs. The motifs are arranged in vertical rows, alternating between rows of carnations and bellflowers and rows of berries/buds. The pattern changes around the edges to carnations, part of a leaf, bell flower, part of a leaf, berries/buds, part of a leaf etc. On top the of the pattern change, the rotation also changes so that the designs are oriented with the edge of the fabric as their base. The embroiderer took special care to make sure that the edge intersected halfway through each motif. All edges but the top are scalloped and finished with buttonhole stitches done over either rolled fabric or a cord. Aside from the change in repeat and orientation, there is no variation between motifs, which suggests that the embroidery was either tracing a pattern or a pattern was printed onto the fabric.

The stems of each motif are completed in stem stitches, and the leaves and petals are completed in satin stitches that do not float over the entire space, but do vary their insertions. There are also several different patterns of openwork. The berries show eyelets, while the flowers show checkerboard patterns, imitation filet lace, draw work, imitation mechlin lace, and a textured diamond pattern. Several of these openwork section appear to have been done in a gauze weave rather than after the weaving process. Further analysis is recommended to determine the process.

Published ReferencesWilliam Armstrong, “Some New Washington Relics, I. From the Collection of Mrs. B. W. Kennon,” The Century Magazine XL: 1 (May 1890): 18.

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