Red silk gown fragment

Status

Not on view

Date1780-1800

Medium/TechniqueSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 19 1/2 in. × 22 in. (49.53 cm × 55.88 cm)

Credit LineMount Vernon Collection

Object numberW-584/G

DescriptionThis rust red silk features 2mm wide stripes of warp faced 4/1 satin alternating with 5mm wide stripes of a plain weave derived float pattern. The float pattern creates a rising diagonal by having 8 warp yarns grouped into 4 pairs float over 5 wefts. The next group, consisting of the same warp configuration, floats over 5 wefts, starting 2 wefts above the last group. The warp yarns are S-spun, and the twist in the weft yarns is no longer evident.

The fabric's width from selvedge to selvedge is 22 1/2 inches, which is fairly wide for the period. The selvedges show 3 light blue stripes and 2 white stripes.

The bottom left corner has been cinched to round it out. This was done by creasing it into 4 equal parts, the creasing down the top. A rust-colored Z-spun 2-ply S thread is inserted near the selvedges on both sides; it may be part of an original seam. The bottom edge of the fragment has been folded back, and there is evidence of a seam about 2/4 inch from the bottom and stitched with a now white Z-spun 2-ply S thread.

The fragment is now a rust red that has faded to yellow in several places. There are several spotted, light-colored stains. The back of the fragment, which likely has not been subjected to the same wear and light has more blue than the front, which may indicate the original color.

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