Red stripe gown fragment
Datec. 1785
Medium/TechniqueSilk
DimensionsOverall: 4 1/2 in. × 3 7/8 in. (11.43 cm × 9.84 cm)
Credit LineGift of Miss Chapman, 1890
Object numberW-544/B
DescriptionThe design of this textile is done through a complicated lampas technique. The face of the fragment alternated between corduroy (the red stripes), and a white stripe bearing a floral motif--perhaps imitating ribbon. The white stripes are edged in 1/16 inch of sky blue with a vine motif of light and dark green and blue-petaled flowers with a purple center and a yellow highlight. The white stripe is 9/16 inch wide (11/16 including the blue edging), and red stripe is 11/16 inch wide. The floral motif shows a straight repeat of 1 1/4 inches. The corduroy sits over a plain weave structure and is created using supplementary warp floats. Only one weft ties down the supplementary warps, creating the thin stripe of the 7/1 corduroy. Combined with the lampas technique, this tells us that the weaver used 3 sets of warps (the maximum), and seven sets of wefts.The fragment is creased down the center, with one side showing virtually no wear while the other side has faded to yellow. This most likely comes from being displayed.
The right side shows a selvedge that has three red stripes.
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